After last week's indulgent steamed puds, I'm feeling thata little more virtue is in order. Luckily, virtue is its own reward, apparently. Ask any nun. It certainly is when it comes toa family of ingredients whose undeniable virtue sometimes gets them a bad name: pulses.
OK, so some have mocked them asthe sort of mushy, windy things you might tuck into after a hard day's weaving your own yurt or mastering the art of recycling macramé. And they are indeed good for you. But that doesn't mean theyaren't delicious, heart- and stomach-warming. Not to mention easy-peasy.
Dried pulses have the added benefit of being cheap, so they're great if you're cooking for a crowd (and everyone should try warm hummus at least once in their life). They also, undeniably, have a slightly better texture and flavour than tinned pulses, but it's marginal, and they require soaking and boiling, which is less good for instant – or near-instant – gratification dinners. So let's go for the Puy lentil, which can be cooked from scratch, no soaking required, in just 15 minutes.
Nonetheless, every store cupboard worth its salt (pepper, cumin and paprika are my favourite pulse-friendly spices) should have a good stash of tins for adding instant body, bite and savour to quick week-night suppers or speedy dips. Chickpeas, cannellini, black-eyed, kidney and butter beans are great simply dressed in a mustardy, herby vinaigrette, or tossed with leftover roast meat, fish or vegetables to make a quick packed lunch.
Or, when you have whole minutes, as opposed to mere seconds, at your disposal, go for oneof today's recipes.
Chickpea, potato and kale curry
A tremendously satisfying curry, and so easy you can make it on a week night for a quick and tasty supper. Serves six.
340g dried chickpeas (or 2 400g tins, drained and rinsed)
1 tsp cumin seeds, plus a little extra to garnish
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp mustard seeds
1 hot, dried red chilli, crumbled
1 tsp ground turmeric
2.5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled andgrated
1 tbsp groundnut or sunflower oil
1 large onion, peeled, halved and finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
700ml chicken or vegetable stock
250g potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm dice
150g kale (or cabbage), finely shredded
Yogurt, to serve
2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped
Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of cold water. Next day, drain, rinse and simmer them for about an hour and a half in fresh water, until tender, then drain. (Ifusing tinned, just drain and rinse.)
Put a dry frying pan over a medium heat and, when hot, toast the cumin, coriander and mustard seeds and the chilli for a couple of minutes until they smell really fragrant and the mustard starts to pop. Grind to apowder in a coffee grinder, spice mill or with a pestle and mortar, and mix in the turmeric and ginger.
Heat the oil in a large pan over amedium heat, and fry the onion, stirring regularly, until soft and golden brown. Stir in the garlic and spices, leave to cook for a minute or two, and add the stock. Simmer for five minutes, then add the chickpeas and potatoes. Cook until the spuds are tender, then add the kale. Cook for a few minutes, until the greens are tender, then serve with a dollop of thick yogurt on top, along with asprinkling of toasted cumin seeds and some coriander leaves.
Harira
This hearty Moroccan soup is traditionally served with dates to break the fast during Ramadan. Serves six.
2 tbsp ghee, clarified butter or 1 tbsp butter and 1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 large onions, peeled and chopped (about 350g)
1 large handful (about 20g) roughly chopped parsley
1 stick celery, finely diced
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp turmeric
½ tsp cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
8 threads toasted, crushed saffron
400g lamb or mutton shoulder, cut into 2.5cm chunks
500g chicken, cut into 2.5cm chunks
2 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped
100g dried red lentils
500ml bottle passata
1 litre chicken stock
1 bay leaf
50g vermicelli, orzo or other small pasta
3 tbsp flour
2 tbsp coriander leaves, to garnish
Dates, to serve
Warm the ghee in a large casserole over a medium heat, and sauté the onions, parsley, celery, pepper and turmeric for four minutes, stirring constantly. Add the cinnamon, ginger, saffron, lamb and chicken, and cook slowly until the meat is golden but not browned – about 15minutes. Add the chopped coriander, lentils and passata to the pot and cook for 15 minutes over a low heat. Add the chicken stock and a bay leaf, simmer gently, covered, for about 30 minutes, then add the pasta and simmer until the pasta is cooked.
In a small bowl, whisk the flour with enough water to create a liquid the consistency of single cream, and tip into the casserole. Stir constantly for five minutes, until thickened. Sprinkle coriander leaves on top and serve at once with dates on the side.
Cannellini beans with cinnamon and tomatoes
Serve this Turkish mezze warm, or enjoy it cold the next day, when it makes a great Tupperware lunch to take with you to work. Serves six.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, peeled, halved and finely sliced
1 cinnamon stick, broken in two
1 bay leaf
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced
2 400g tins cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
Chicken or vegetable stock (or water)
½ tsp chilli flakes or paprika
400g tinned chopped tomatoes
½ tsp sugar
70g black olives, stoned and roughly chopped (optional)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 handful parsley, tough stalks removed, coarsely chopped
1 handful coriander, tough stalks removed, coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Yogurt, to serve
Warm the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onions, cinnamon and bay leaf, and sweat, stirring frequently, until the onions are very soft, about15 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for a couple of minutes more.
Tip in the beans and add just enough stock barely to cover the beans. Let it bubble away for 10 minutes, then add the chilli flakes, tomatoes, sugar and olives (if using), and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the tomatoes have reduced into a thick sauce.
Add the lemon juice, leave to coolslightly, then stir in the parsley and coriander. Season to taste, and serve with a little yogurt dolloped over the top and warm flatbreads orpitta on the side.
